FLORENCE: Tradition
When Bucci thinks about Childhood Christmases in Florence, the first thing that comes to mind is the smell of incense. “We always went to midnight mass in the church next to my parent’s house,” she says. Raised Catholic by an Italian father and Jewish mother from New York, the home during the holidays was a bustling hub, full of family and a flurry of activity as everyone rushed to finish their gifting list.
When Christmas Eve arrived, mass was celebrated while mom stayed home, making sure the finishing touches were put on the gifts and the meal for the next day. At home, holiday music floated through the air, with the sounds of classic crooners like Bing Crosby and Barry Manilow lending themselves to the lively seasonal spirit.
“We would wake up and the tree was overloaded with presents covering the whole floor. We all had our matching pajamas and hair ribbons.” A relaxed morning opening presents would be followed by a cozy lunch. “My mother is the most Christmassy Jew ever, the Jewish tradition was literally feeding people.” The Christmas day meal was always the same — her father’s beloved chicken liver paté followed by broth with tiny prosciutto filled tortellini, and finally beef wellington. “It was a blend of new things that we all love, like the beef wellington, and then old things as well.” The meal always ended with Bucci’s mom’s speciality: New York cheesecake.
For those considering a Tuscan Christmas of their own, food also serves as an important tradition for visitors and locals alike. “Sostanza is one of my favorite restaurants for this time of the year. It’s tiny, you're basically in the kitchen. It hasn't changed in ages. The recipes are still the same.” There’s also a pastry shop called Rivoire, which is in the Piazza della Signoria, where the Palazzo Vecchio is, which is known for Florentine hot chocolate, a thick, custardy drink, and one that gets Bucci into the holiday spirit.
For one last tradition: “My mother would always give all of us a pair of red underwear. Apparently you need to wear them on the first day of the year for good luck. I don't know if that's an Italian tradition or an American or she just made it up.”